Comments for The Heavy Table - Minneapolis-St. Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine and Blog

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by russ

russ — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 20:00:10 +0000

Just as a comparison, the James Beard award Semifinalists were announced yesterday and Chef Klein was included in that list for Best Chef Midwest as were Chefs Russo (Heartland), Flicker (Piccolo), Steven Brown (Tilia), Woodman (Heidi’s), Mike Brown and James Winberg (Travail). Also Tim McKee was listed as Most Outstanding Chef (La Belle Vie), Sameh Wadi (Saffron) was listed as Rising Star Chef of the Year, and Michelle Gayer (Salty Tart) for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Now, I know James Norton clearly stated that he’s less concerned about fine dining and more interested in “how people cook and eat every night of the week,” but I think this list is more indicative of the people that are pushing the limits. Please, again – I like Lola and Sonora and understand the reasoning behind J Norton’s thinking – but if I’m looking for a top notch Chef, they probably are sitting on the James Beard Semi Finalists list.

Comment on Beard Award Nominees and Morning Roundup by Abbey

Abbey — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 16:07:41 +0000

And dine we did!

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best New Establishment by Brian

Brian — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 05:43:15 +0000

Kraig, if you don’t like the list… Write your own.

Comment on Cocina Del Barrio in Edina by Brian

Brian — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 05:31:53 +0000

So… How was the adult food? And a buck for a basket of chips isn’t a big deal… If you ask for more of something, expect to pay for it. If it just shows up and they charge you for it, I see the issue. But c’mon. Do you ask for more fries and expect them to be free?

Comment on Joe Heron of Crispin Cider by Hard Cider to Swallow: What the sale of Crispin Cider means to the craft world | Midwest Beer Collective

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 22:40:44 +0000

[...] Note: For background information on Crispin Ciders read Heavy Table’s interview with Joe Heron. To find information about the sale of Crispin Cider to MillerCoors, please visit A Perfect [...]

Comment on Minneapolis-St. Paul Atlas of Ethical Eating by Minneapolis-St. Paul Atlas of Ethical Eating - Posted on November 2nd, 2009 by Joe Lencioni

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 19:44:36 +0000

[...] Cattle company, and Jane Rosemarin from Slow Food Minnesota have teamed up to put together an atlas of ethical eating for Minneapolis-St. Paul. The quest to eat ethically is not a simple one. Many conflicting and complementary ideas need to [...]

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by Andrew

Andrew — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 19:29:21 +0000

Wow this is a really interesting debate. I would have to say I agree with Russ and Moe. However, there is no denying that casual dining has and deserves respect. There are a million places that serve up uninspiring tacos and crap pizza. If takes skill and time and patience (especially with pizza) to come up with a good product. However, I’m not sure either owners of Sonora or Lola deserve recognition of best chef just yet. Neither have proved longevity or staying power in a market that seems to have a very short attention span. Also, it takes more than making one good product to be considered a chef. A chef is a master in some regards of a broad field. They also have people under them who they have developed and trained into a great cooks with the potential to be a chef. I’m not sure I see any people on this list like that other than Klein.

Comment on Cocina Del Barrio in Edina by Jason Walker

Jason Walker — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 15:47:34 +0000

An extra $1 for chips? Jeez. Hide that cost somewhere else, because otherwise you’re just going to alienate me. It’s like charging for drink refills – nobody wants to be nickel-and-dimed.

Comment on WACSO Reception at the Birchwood Cafe by Sue

Sue — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 02:11:17 +0000

Sweet! He basically doesn’t toot his own horn. SO I WILL. Show up. He is the best…..

Comment on Masu Sushi and Robata in Northeast Minneapolis by 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best New Establishment « The Heavy Table – Minneapolis-St. Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine and Blog

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 23:54:04 +0000

[...] What we wrote then: “From its clear concept to its smart-as-a-whip Japanese pop culture interior to its quirky, well-executed food, the place feels legitimately cosmopolitan.” – James Norton, June 8, 2011 [...]

Comment on Johnny Michaels of Northstar Bartender’s Guild by Northstar Bartender’s Guild Book | Lifestyle Of Change

Northstar Bartender’s Guild Book | Lifestyle Of Change — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 23:11:11 +0000

[...] Based in Minneapolis, MN the Northstar Bartender’s Guild is a compilation of the city’s most knowledgable and skilled bartenders. Â From the aged and high quality alcohols used, to the flavorful ingredients – this group can make just about any cocktail from pre-prohibition to the current mixtures they’ve invented. Â We’d recommend this book to anyone who has an affinity for specialty drinks and the history behind their craft. Click HERE to read more, or find yourself a copy any book store. Share this:TwitterFacebookLike this:LikeBe the first to like this post. This entry was posted in Gear by lifestyleofchange. Bookmark the permalink. [...]

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best New Establishment by carri

carri — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 15:51:25 +0000

I don’t understand Sun Street’s raves, I’ve read many times that they have the “Best Biscuits in the Twin Cities”. I hate to break it to everyone, but their chances are 50/50 for having the best biscuit since their only competition is Collosol Cafe. I would argue Collosol’s biscuits are far superior to Sun Street’s.

Comment on The Eclectic Cuts Menu at Rosa Mexicano by Karlitto's

Karlitto's — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:17:25 +0000

Invoking “Art of Butchery” as a marketing strategy has real weight in a town where restaurants process whole animals and do more than pierce cryovac.

Comment on Breakfast at West Bank Diner by maggie

maggie — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 23:53:30 +0000

i’ll go!

Comment on Sea Change Revisited and Morning Roundup by Chris

Chris — Sat, 18 Feb 2012 17:00:24 +0000

I’ve waited forever for Eat Street Social to open — I was a huge Town Talk fan — but last night’s service was absolutely terrible. I have a really high tolerance for bad service, and I know how restaurants take a while to find their groove, but seriously: it was bad.

It took nearly three hours to get a table drinks and apps. The drinks took forever, but two different waiters explained that the “bar is slammed” and “it’s really backed up.” Two minutes later (!!!) the waiters and other bartenders are downing drinks behind the bar and taking pictures! I mean, that’s just insulting, and really embarrassing.

Really, it was a hugely depressing experience. I’ve been a fan of these guys forever, and I felt like I was let down. I’d email instead of being a dumb internet commenter, but it looks like there’s no email address on their website or NE Social’s.

Comment on Breakfast at West Bank Diner by morchella

morchella — Fri, 17 Feb 2012 14:17:15 +0000

Thanks for the review! I’m looking forward to trying this place. Another gem nearby with affordable unexpected flavor is the Afro Deli on Riverside and 20th.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best New Establishment by yeahyeahyeah

yeahyeahyeah — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:55:31 +0000

Maybe these places are getting all this attention beacause they are um, better than the rest? Once people start to like things they are no longer cool, everyone knows this.

Comment on The Caves of Faribault by Andria

Andria — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 15:15:33 +0000

“Cheese is like people.” Jeff is so sweet about his fromage.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best New Establishment by War and Peace Coffee and Morning Roundup | The Heavy Table - Minneapolis-St. Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine and Blog

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:56:28 +0000

[...] Lola, and some WACSO illustrations of Tilia and Steven Brown (posted here in honor of their Silver Whisk nomination). » War and Peace Coffee and Morning Roundup Tags: Caesar's Bar, Craftsman, Eli's East, [...]

Comment on The Cheese Caves of Faribault by The Caves of Faribault | The Heavy Table - Minneapolis-St. Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine and Blog

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:07:08 +0000

[...] Heavy Table also visited the Caves in 2009.) » The Caves of Faribault Tags: cheese, Faribault, video » Print Version // [...]

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by russ

russ — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:07:56 +0000

@kevin-mpls – Yea, I agree with you about Sonora and Lola – they put out a great product. I’m comparing a “best chef” list to previous lists and it doesn’t jive with the historical trend. I can’t stress enough about how much I appreciate casual dining – especially the cost – and we need more high-quality, accessible dining options. Though I also think that it’s much easier for a competent chef to work their way down to a casual place rather than up to fine dining. As you probably guessed, I’m originally from Chicago and there are A LOT of good taco places that make everything from scratch. Also A LOT of pizza places that do the same. I think it would be very difficult for someone that runs a great pizza place to put out high end Italian though – they typically don’t have the formal training, experience with ingredients, etc that would be required of an executive chef. I think we may be more similar than you think but I was getting hung up on the “chef” classification.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by Moe

Moe — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:06:02 +0000

I won’t speak for @russ, but my issue isn’t that Lola and Sonora aren’t deserving, it’s that only 1 out of the 4 is a traditional full scale restaurant chef.

I think it all comes down to what my expectations are from an award winning chef.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by russ

russ — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:58:56 +0000

@James Norton – Although I like your blog and respect your overall goal, I still can’t agree with your thoughts on this matter. My initial disappointment about your nominees list was that there really didn’t seem to be a barrier of entry to your “chef” classification. I really don’t have a preference for fine dining vs. casual dining vs. hot dog carts – as I enjoy them all but there’s a good reason why fine dining gets a lot of press – it helps push the food movement forward -whether it be skill or creativity – thus allowing the other aspects of “everyday” dining to grow. Good chefs usually work for other good chefs and a competitive environment fosters creativity and pushes boundaries. Their “flashy ingredients” come from somewhere and in your eyes – hopefully locally, which leads to farms pushing out better product, which may some day allow me access to better ingredients. Did something change in your nominee selection process this year? Over the last few years it seems that your selections were mostly from “fine dining” and included chefs that use “flashy ingredients.” I’m just saying that it seems different this year. Anyway, I’ve made my point and if we don’t see eye to eye, it’s okay – it’s still America – and I’ll still check out Heavy Table.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by @kevin_mpls

@kevin_mpls — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:57:13 +0000

@russ – I guess I don’t accept the premise that “knocking out tortas at XOCO doesn’t reflect the same skill or creativity as ANY of the dishes at Topolobampo” is necessarily true. And, full disclosure – both of my adult children work in upscale establishments (including a James Beard winning eatery) that my wife & I frequent so I hold no grudge toward fine dining. I’ve also worked in the industry and while I’m more familiar with work product at Sonora than Lola I can tell you that the tacos, bocadillo’s etc there DO take a great deal of creativity, effort & skill to produce – even salsas & ailoi are made in-house daily and Alejandro Castillon invents weekly specials that are as whimsical and delightful as those I’ve seen offered by other “serious” chefs in this town. I like that Mr. Norton has decided to focus on the whole spectrum of dining choices rather than blindly missing out on lesser known, talented pros that offer food that’s as pleasing and well made AND is affordable enough to be enjoyed by the 99%.

If it takes large, complex organizations with many moving parts to produce something of high value then does it follow that enterprise software from IBM is more worthy of praise than the elegant “killer app” developed by a solo developer in their basement?

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best New Establishment by Kraig Coopersmith

Kraig Coopersmith — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:24:56 +0000

How about some originality in the restaurants that are written about? all the food publications in this town are just replications of each other. With the exception of D-spot, all of these places have been written about constantly in all the major publications (MSP MAG, MN MO, Star Trib Taste section, City pages, VitAmin).

Yes, Tilia is an amazing restaurant (and Steven Brown and incredible chef), the crew at Masu is incredible and Sun Street is the best bakery in South MPLS; but this town is FILLED with other new establishments that pack a punch as suitable as any of these places.

Only thing missing in this is some mention of Bachelor Farmer, which I will give you credit for not nominating.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by Moe

Moe — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:15:35 +0000

@russ, I really could not have written that more eloquently. Well put.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by russ

russ — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:13:38 +0000

@kevin-mpls – Sorry for the confusion but let me take a step back and clear up my thoughts for you. I DO like Lola and Sonora – it’s good food and represents some of the best of their kind in the area. I’m not trying to be a “white tablecloth environment” snob – I’m actually in favor of a more relaxed dining experience. My friends don’t have to tell me about the the “top-name chefs” in NY and Chicago opening casual places because I’ve been to them. Rick Bayless isn’t earning a Michelin star for XOCO (easily on par with Sonora – possibly better), he’s getting one for Topolobampo. Paul Kahan isn’t going to be considered a great chef because of his pork belly or al Pastor tacos at Big Star – it’s for his work at Blackbird. Although I enjoyed my tacos at Big Star on Friday afternoon, I’m not short-sighted enough to think that it compares favorably to Blackbird, Avec or even Publican. There’s a simple reason for this – knocking out tortas at XOCO doesn’t reflect the same skill or creativity as ANY of the dishes at Topolobampo. It’s that simple. I enjoy a taco or a pizza as much as anyone (probably more) but if a food media outlet wants to tell me that’s as good as it gets for 2011 in MPLS, I have a right to feel pretty disappointed. Just compare this list to years past: 2010 – Chefs Woodman, Wadi, Russo and Pampuch – 2009 – Chefs Phillips, Becker and Klein. Sorry, this year just doesn’t compare.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by James Norton

James Norton — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:06:32 +0000

Kevin, I really could not have written that more eloquently. Well put.

The Heavy Table is dedicated to exploring the whole spectrum of dining. Fine dining, with its flashy ingredients and laborious techniques, tends to get more than its share of press. We’re interested in how people cook and eat every night of the week, and for lunch, and breakfast, and on the street. The best fine dining chefs and restaurants are easy to find – every publication, us included, writes about them multiple times every year. We’d like to push beyond that – not excluding upscale experiences, but capturing a much broader picture of what it means to eat and drink in the Upper Midwest.

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best New Establishment by rosie

rosie — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 19:26:30 +0000

Love Sun Street! Only gripe is that I wish that they would source their eggs/meat locally!

Comment on 2011 Silver Whisk Award Nominees: Best Chef by @kevin_mpls

@kevin_mpls — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 18:52:53 +0000

I’m confused by @russ & @moe frame of reference. Cooking involves taking ingredients & transforming them in to something to eat – a chef should be measured on their skills to not only make something, but elevate the final product above the sum of those parts. This is actually MUCH easier to do if you’re starting with expensive, luxurious ingredients and more difficult if you’re starting with everyday, pedestrian stuff such as flour, yeast & water, skirt steak, chicken thighs, etc. It could be that a fine-dining, white tablecloth environment adds to the experience for some people, but certainly not all. Best food I’ve ever eaten was from a gas station in Treme, NOLA, served up by an elderly grandma who had taken the most humble greens, grits & cheap meat cuts and turned them in to a symphony of flavors that absolutely floored me. I wonder if @russ friends have told him that many top-name chefs in NY & Chicago have been racing to open burger joints & other casual dining places to try and present simple, comfort food well executed. Both Lola & Sonora excel at producing exceptional food using simple, accessible ingredients & for that they should be seriously considered and possibly honored. Don’t discount substance due to lack of hyperbole. Judging outstanding, scratch-made “street eats” unworthy of consideration is as disingenuous as clamoring for “local, sustainable” food items but choosing not to include plentiful invasive species such as carp, garlic mustard, etc in your diet.